NILIF

“Nothing in life is free.”  NILIF.

Sounds like a rather cynical – albeit accurate – worldview, doesn’t it?

And while that may be one instance of the phrase, another is actually a dog training philosophy: when it comes to our relationship with the dog, nothing in life is free.

When first considering the concept, I realised that it’s a principle I’d often been employing without using that specific term.  My dog has to wait patiently for his food.  He has to perfectly execute a long-distance sit-stay to receive praise.  He has to be calm to receive affection.  He has to sit nicely at the door while I get ready before we go for a walk.  He has to be calm and obedient and walk nicely before he gets free “go play” time.

No, things are certainly not free for my dog, but I really don’t think he’s that distressed about it.  (Admittedly, the cats are governed by something much closer to EILIF – everything in life is free – and I suspect implementing otherwise would result in a revolt of epic proportions.)

At the base of it, NILIF is all about setting clear rules, guidelines, and expectations, and then following through with them.  Happily, my dog caught on quickly as a puppy, and very well knows that he’s going to do a sit-stay in the kitchen for a few minutes while we prepare his food and before he can eat.

Of course, provided my dog thinks about things the same way, he might be of the opinion that nothing in life is free for me, either; I don’t get the good behaviour out of him that I prefer unless I have consistently proved that I will make it worth his while.  So perhaps nothing in life is free for either of us and it’s a symbiotic give and take.

And the same may also be true with respect to undesired behaviour.  If my dog acts like a jerk, he will not get away with it – it will not be free.  Say, for example, he breaks a sit-stay.  I will then replace him and usually restart the clock if I’m going for a specific duration.  As far as my dog is concerned, this is a bad consequence, because he’s already shown me he’d rather be doing something else.  On the other hand, say I am practising recall with him, and fail to give praise when he comes into me – then maybe he will determine that the next time he’s not going to come when I call because I failed on my end of the bargain in the past.

Neither good nor bad behaviour is free for either of us: the good is earned and rewarded, and the bad comes with a negative follow-up of some sort.

The general principle NILIF works around is that we’re asking the dog to do something that is not rewarding in itself (i.e. a sit-stay), but then we follow up with offering something with a higher value as a reward (i.e. praise, food, play time, or even just more favourable body language).[1]

For those in the know, this is similar to the Premack Principle, which is the idea that we’re withholding access to something the dog views as inherently good in order to get the dog to follow our commands.  My dog learns that when I begin to prepare his food, that’s a cue for him to sit politely and calmly in the kitchen, rather than get in my way and try to get to the food as soon as possible.  He gets what he wants because of me, not in spite of me.  In return, I get desired behaviour.

Of course, even though NILIF fans stress it’s a “way of life” and not a training technique, I think we can all see the immediate benefits it will provide when it is applied to training.  And, like anyone discussing dog training and behaviour, there are critics.

Those opposed to NILIF simply say it’s cruel: it doesn’t allow a dog to just “be a dog”, because we are controlling every aspect.  Nothing is free for the dog to do or determine on its own.  They suggest this is stressful for the dog and basically creates a prisoner with Stockholm syndrome.

I disagree with the critics and agree with Kelly Gorman Dunbar’s response:

…NILIF makes life extremely predictable and controlled, which a dog’s mind craves and understands; that’s why it works so well. And while it’s true that a NILIF dog doesn’t have free control over his life (really, what pet dog does?) it does afford the dog clarity of consequences and consistency in the form of control over access to resources via his behavior; and that’s the point really.

As for the idea that NILIF causes stress, well, not all stress is bad. I’m not of the mindset that stress should be avoided at all costs. Just abuse. Some amount of stress is not only good, but also unavoidable in life. Ultimately, clarity and consistency actually reduce stress and makes a dog’s life easier, so it’s better than an environment of no rules, unpredictability, and lack of clear communication that many dogs live with due to human foible.

No form of training to fluency is stress-free. The truth is most science-based or so-called “positive trainers” (how I hate that term!) do use some degree of withholding in order to manipulate the dog’s environment, but mainly by using life rewards over food to enhance training and proof distractions. Most dogs still get free belly rubs and runs in the park too.[2]

On the Stockholm comment, I would also argue that NILIF does not make you the jailor and your dog the prisoner.  Leader and follower, perhaps.  Aside from my previous note that it does seem to involve compromise on both halves, NILIF teaches dogs to look to us for the things they want and need:  food, exercise, affection, play.  This is not unrealistic or cruel, because as a dog owner, you actually are in charge of all of these things, among many others.  Bringing your dog’s attention to this fact is not a bad thing.

Say, on a walk, your canine sees other dogs having play time in a park across the street.  Perhaps in a non-NILIF household where the dog has not been taught expectations, the dog would just make a beeline across the road enthusiastically, exercising its desire to go play.  Dangerous?  Absolutely.  And not just because of the road, but also because the owner isn’t given the opportunity to assess the other dogs and their owners, and make a safe call about the situation.

Using the same hypothetical in a NILIF context, it is possible that your dog will see the others playing and then check in with you, their leader, first, before simply bolting across the street.  The dog knows play time comes from the owner, and may fully expect to have to walk over there calmly and practice some patience before being allowed to play.  The owner is also given the opportunity to control the dog across the roadway, and assess the dog’s future playmates and the environment generally.

After exercising a NILIF-type routine, the dog will learn that the things he or she wants (and could previously have taken for “free”) come from you, the leader and guardian.

Of course, it is important to note that anything taken to the extreme is dangerous, and it is possible that someone could take a skewed, fundamentalist view of NILIF and turn it into a restrictive policy that borders on abuse.  The same can be said about almost anything, but it’s important to include these disclaimers even if just to give pause.  NILIF does not intend to create dictator-like dog owners who have an iron fist gripping all of the resources, but rather a benevolent leader who has the means to look out for the dog’s best interests and is able to draw out favourable behaviours in all sorts of situations.  You can implement NILIF and still shower your dog with affection, treats, toys, and playtime.  It’s all about balance.  The added NILIF element – that the dog has to do some work first – can ensure your dog is not spoiled and unruly.

And as the benevolent leader, it’s up to you to make sure the dog knows where the expectations lie, and never withhold necessary resources that are essential to your dog’s health and wellbeing.  Yes, a calm sit-stay is perfectly acceptable before allowing your dog to eat, but as the owner you have to be realistic.  If you are just starting out, perhaps all you will get is one minute (or less) of patience from your dog as he stares hungrily at his food.  Consider that a starting point for the both of you to build from, and don’t starve your dog because he can’t hold his stay indefinitely.

Returning again to Ms. Dunbar, who I think says it best:

I think what’s important is to keep in mind the dog’s physical and mental well being and to train as kindly and clearly as possible while still efficiently getting the job done; because good training is what keeps dogs happy, safe, and in their homes and that is the ultimate goal.[3]

The starting point for Moses’ solid sit-stay was ensuring him that he’d be adequately praised for a job well done.

---

[1] http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/nilif-nasty
[2] Ibid.
[3] Ibid.

Flexi-Leash Fury

Flexi-Leash Fury

Visualize for a moment with me, now will you?

I am walking my dog down a familiar suburban sidewalk.  On the horizon I spot an oncoming pedestrian.  Like any alert dog owner, I scan for the silhouette of a dog, just to prepare for any possible meetings, greetings, or altercations.  I see nothing and proceed as normal.

Then, as the figure approaches, I notice something in her hand.  It appears that she’s holding something – about the size of your averaged paperback – by its handle.  Ahh, the all too familiar flexi-leash.  Since her accompanying dog is not readily noticed, I scan once again for her canine companion until I spot him:  a small Scottish Terrier who is a good 20 feet away from his owner, sniffing and marking his way along the neighbourhood lawns.  He is far ahead of her as she marches down the sidewalk towards me completely oblivious and unprepared.

As we get closer, Mr. Scottish Terrier finally notices us approaching and is not okay with our presence.  Barking and lunging ensue.  My usual recourse for interactions such as these is to pull over to the grass with my dog on the inside and calmly keep going, paying no mind to the temper tantrum that is occurring on the sidewalk.  I give the other owner a wide berth, allowing him or her to take as much control over the reacting dog as is possible.  We have worked on this a lot and happily Moses rarely perks an ear to these types of encounters any more.

However, in this particular case, that is not an option.  With his owner as the pivot point, the terrier now has a 20 foot radius to patrol as we pass by, necessitating our move onto the curb among parked cars and close to residential traffic to keep out of the little mongrel’s way.  The terrier proceeds to bark and lunge at the end of his leash, and even gains a few extra feet of leash since his owner is too slow on the brake.  I can hear the flexi-leash click as it either becomes totally extended or the brake mechanism has broken.  With the long distance from his owner to gain momentum, this 20 lb little dog is actually able to nearly pull his average-sized middle-aged female owner over with his efforts to get closer to us.  She tries backing on to someone’s lawn in a weak effort pull him out of our way, since she cannot reel him in without any slack in the line.

Once we pass and are safely back on the sidewalk, it takes everything in my power not to shout back to her “lose the flexi-leash!”

Sure, there really are several problems working in tandem here: a less than stellar dog owner, poorly trained dog, and a crappy, but all too common, piece of equipment.  My target here is the ever-infuriating flexi-leash.

Nothing during the course of an average dog walk irritates me more than encounters similar to the above.  Or seeing any dog at any time being walked on a flexi-leash for that matter.  As a motorist or pedestrian it is far too common a sight to see a dog walking along, or even crossing the street, 20 feet ahead of or behind its owner.  The safety concerns seem obvious, yet stores keep selling these leashes, and people keep buying them.  Yes, I immediately and harshly judge the flexi-leash user.  And not just because incidents like the aforementioned are frequent and put a damper on my own dog walks, but because there are legitimate reasons why the flexi-leash should never be considered a useful tool to the responsible dog owner.

Quite frankly, flexi-leashes are an abomination, and their popularity is based on completely false and irrational myths believed by naïve buyers.  Despite by-laws in many municipalities setting the maximum appropriate leash length at 6 feet/2 metres (e.g. Calgary, Alberta), these little devices are as popular as ever.

The ads will tell you that these retractable leashes give your dog more “freedom” while you maintain control.  This is very simply false.  Any added distance between you and your dog means less control.  Just ask the owner of the Scottish Terrier from the story above; she had no control over her dog whatsoever, and the look on her face at the time suggested to me that she was quite aware of it.  Was it enough to prompt her to ditch the flexi-leash for a sensible 6 foot one?  Well, unfortunately probably not, but there’s no accounting for common sense.

And all too often we see the unbalanced, under-exercised little lap dog yapping away at the end of the flexi-leash.  But how about when it’s the other way around?  Now imagine that a calm, friendly dog is on the end, still 20 feet away from its owner, and going in for a greeting with an unfamiliar dog – and said greeting just happens to turn south for one of a myriad of possible reasons.  The owner of the dog has no immediate recourse to protect their dog from the aggressor when the altercation is going down so far away.  A dog truly intent on harming another can and will do so in a split second.  Now imagine both dogs are on flexi-leashes and neither owner is able to respond quickly enough.  Mon Dieu!

Your dog’s health and safety is your number one responsibility as a dog owner, so how is it that the flexi-leash keeps slipping through the cracks?  The flexi-leash poses a safety risk to your dog, and that’s all there is to it.  Your dog can encounter any number of things during a walk (other dogs, other people, bikes, vehicles, porcupines, skunks, etc.), and when they are 20 or more feet away you are less likely to be able to anticipate it, prevent it, or help them quickly in a serious situation.  Yes, people actually have stood helplessly by while their dog – at the end of a flexi-leash – wandered onto the road and got hit by a car.

In addition to being a hazard to your dog, the flexi-leash also poses hazards to the human user, including tripping and tangling which are obvious risks associated with that much lead.  More serious hazards actually include reported cases of abrasions, rope burn, and even finger amputations (for those who believe a visualization of these hazards is helpful, visit http://www.flexiusa.com/operation/safety-advice.php ).  The flexi-leash comes with a bonafide owner’s manual when purchased, with the least of precautions being that they’re only to be used with obedient, well-mannered dogs.  Experience, of course, shows us that is rarely the case.

Some actually suggest that having a dog on a flexi-leash has made the need for teaching them to “heel” or “come” unnecessary.  Opting to forego some basic obedience because of sheer ignorance, stupidity, or indifference?  Really?

And while we’re at it, no, allowing your dog to zig-zag around does not “give her more exercise” or let her “enjoy” the walk more.  Are you truly so lazy that you are looking for shortcuts and cannot take your dog on a proper daily walk?

Flexi-leashes also do not prevent your dog from pulling, as many claim; they just mask the problem.  Put the same dog on a proper leash, and the owner will complain of pulling – why?  Because the dog always pulls.  When using a flexi-leash, the dog actually learns to pull, since they must pull forward to get more lead.  Additionally, flexi-leashes self-retract when not locked, so there is always tension on the leash.  Because the reel of the leash is the only part that monitors the tension and slack, the owner is oblivious.  But all you have to do is look:  no slack in the line means the leash is tight; tension means the dog is pulling.  Just because you can’t feel it, doesn’t mean it’s not there.

And, finally, for those who will inevitably respond that the flexi-leash is a great tool for training your dog at a distance, I pose this question: if your dog isn’t perfectly behaved at the end of a 6 foot leash, how can you expect them to be just as good from 20 feet away?  If you properly practice building up distance when training, making slow, gradual increases in distance will ensure you’ll never need to make use of a long-line or flexi-leash.  Your dog will learn to pay attention and respond from 5, 10, even 50 or more feet way.  From a training perspective, the ever-tight flexi-leash also does not provide any method to send our dogs clear messages or follow-up.  Sure, from a distance we expect our verbal commands to do the work, but if they are spot-on and built up gradually, a flexi-leash should never be required.  Controlling our urge to push our dogs too far too fast will make the seemingly most legitimate use of the flexi-leash obsolete altogether.

The bottom line:  the flexi-leash is an awful contraption that should never be used.  The use of a flexi-leash simply signifies to me an untrained dog accompanied by an uneducated owner.  And fewer things are more infuriating than that.

Dog Owning 101

Dog Ownership 101: The Basics
The things I wish all dog owners knew, or knew to consider.

1.  What type of dog is best for you?

Granted, it might be too late, but this is something that should be given huge consideration for someone getting a (or another) dog.

Becoming a dog owner is not just adding a cute, furry addition to your daily routine; dogs are a commitment of your time and money, and becoming a good dog owner requires a life-style change.  Different breeds have different needs and will provide you with different challenges, and you have to be very honest about what will be best for both you and your dog.  Sure, Australian Shepherds are darn cute, but do you actually have 2-3 hours per day (every day, for the next 12-15 years) to dedicate to providing your dog with the physical and mental stimulation it needs?

Make a frank assessment of your lifestyle and what kind of companion you’re looking for.  In addition to how cute the dog is, consider energy levels, size, type of coat (shedding), etc.  Great Danes make very cute puppies, but shelters and rescue organizations frequently see them surrendered once they are full grown and the previous owner decided they couldn’t handle a dog that size.  But with a little foresight, these and similar situations are entirely preventable.  Do your research; know what you’re getting yourself into.

2.  Where to get your dog from?

I am not going to go into detail, and I honestly don’t think I should have to in any event, because information concerning the horrors of puppy mills abound.  Everyone considering a puppy should do their best to ensure their money is not funding these organizations.  Yes, puppies sold in pet stores are often from puppy mills.  Stay away.

Also beware of the notorious “backyard breeder”.  These are breeders who are trying to turn a profit, and who treat the dogs akin to livestock.  They do not pay attention to breeding lines, hereditary diseases, or cases of inbreeding, and often have one female giving birth to multiple litters per year.  Watch out.

And if you are seeking a dog from a breeder, do your homework and ask lots of questions.  A good breeder will ask you lots of questions, too.  Make a visit to see the puppies and any other dogs they may have in advance and check out the living conditions.  If you’re not comfortable, don’t support them.

If you want to rescue a dog, research is again very important – both into your potential new dog, and into the organization itself.  Have a lengthy conversation with the people at the organization who have spent the most time with the dog you have in mind, since they should be able to give you good insights about your chosen dog.  And remember, when adopting a rescue – whether adult or puppy – you may be also adopting a variety of potential mental or physical problems (also possible when getting a dog from a breeder, too, of course), so ensure you are prepared (mentally, physically, financially) to deal with what may arise.

3.  Exercise!

First, lets be clear on what I mean by “exercise”:  I mean a proper WALK.  I do not mean running around the backyard, playing fetch, or going to an off-leash park.  I mean walking with your dog heeled next to you.  The other aforementioned activities are play-time perks you dog can certainly enjoy after his or her daily walk.

A proper dog walk is important for several reasons.  Some are:

a)  Physical exercise.  Obviously.  Many pet dogs are overweight, and lack of physical exercise is half the problem (being over-fed would be the other).  Our dogs need exercise to build muscle and be physically fit, just like we do.  At minimum, your dog needs an hour walk per day.  Every day.  For his or her entire life.  This is a responsibility you agreed to when you decided to get a dog.

b)  Release of pent-up energy.  In addition to the physical health benefits of walking, there are mental benefits as well.  Dogs that have pent-up energy from lack of physical and mental stimulation tend to take it out at home, and chewing and digging are great indicators of this – they’re just trying to keep themselves busy.  A daily walk will help alleviate boredom and keeps them mentally and physically engaged.

c)  Bonding.  An hour or more of walking per day is a great opportunity to build a bond with your dog.  With them heeled next to you, they have to pay attention to you when you turn, stop, and change pace.  Their attention is focused on you, and they look to you for leadership.  This can actually improve other aspects of your relationship with your dog, such as their obedience to commands and rules and your other expectations of them.

d)  Socialization.  Getting your dog out daily to see, and possibly meet, people and other dogs along the way is a great way to ensure they’re polite when greeting new people and other dogs.  Getting out regularly to new locations and on different routes also helps them to be relaxed and confident in all sorts of situations.  Our dogs are our companions, so the more places we can take them with us, the better.

e)  Gives your dog a job.  While dogs are believed to have been domesticated since as early as 10,000 BCE, dogs have only been urban, household pets for the last 100 years or so, a trend that developed as a status symbol, together with the modern kennel club institutions.  All breeds of dogs were engineered for one type of job or another: herding, hunting, drafting, tracking, guarding, etc.  And yes, even Fido, as he sleeps on your couch, has instincts associated with his intended “job”.  So even if you’re not able to take your dog to herding trials or tracking classes, at the very least his or her job can be to walk nicely next to you for an hour or two per day.  It’s not asking a lot, and they are receiving a much more luxurious lifestyle than the working dog of centuries past as it is.

4.  Training

All I am simply going to say here is: train your dog! I am going to try to remain uncontroversial here and avoid commenting on the different schools of thought, but the importance of training your dog in general is huge.  All dog owners represent the whole dog owning community when they’re out in public (which should be daily, if you’re exercising your dog regularly), so just as it’s important to pick up after them, it’s also important to ensure you don’t have a crazy furry monster at the end of your leash.

I am going to go out on a limb and say that there’s probably not one style of training that will work for every single dog and every single owner, so it’s important to look into local training organizations and pick one you agree with and think will work for both you and your dog.  And once you’ve picked it, for the love of Zeus, try it!  Give it 100% for the duration of the class.  Do what your trainer tells you, and if you don’t see drastic results immediately, be patient and consistent and practice at home.  While one method probably won’t work for everyone, no method will work unless you actually give it an honest effort.  Because, yes, what they say is true and it’s more like people training anyway.

I’d also like to take this moment to say that training isn’t a one-time fix for anything.  Just because you signed up for a 6 week course, doesn’t mean you can throw it all out after the class is over and will have the perfect dog for life.  Training, and maintaining rules and boundaries, continues throughout the lifetime of your dog, and is just another responsibility you accepted upon getting a dog.

5.  Diet

If you can purchase your dog’s food at the grocery store, simply put, you’re probably feeding them garbage.  Information on the perils of feeding cheap, poor-quality dog food can easily be found once one looks for it, so I invite you to do so.  There have been lots of pet food recalls in the recent years among those “grocery store brands”, and as a responsible dog owner, it’s up to you to educate yourself on what exactly is in that kibble and what it means for your dog.

A dog fed a proper, healthy diet has fewer medical issues, a healthier body weight, and a longer life-span.  Look into raw diets or quality dried foods that aren’t full of grains and unnecessary ingredients.  Your dog will like them better and be healthier for it.

And that’s it: the very basics of dog ownership as I see it.  While there is really a lot more to it than that, these are the big-picture concerns, which, if addressed, would lead to more fulfilled dogs and happier owners alike.

Perfecting “Go Pee”

Setting Pace at the Dog Run:
How to Give Fido a Designated Backyard Bathroom Location

Saving your lawn and teaching your dogs to do their “business” in a particular location is extremely easy – in theory.  But as we all know, if there is any sort of grey area or inconsistency, our dogs usually can find it and will exploit it.  Here’s how you can start the process and deal with potential struggles.

First, I recommend beginning in the spring/summer to encourage your own dedication to the process, since no one really wants to accompany their dog for every bathroom break in -20°C weather.  It will also provide many months of habit-forming before snow covers your yard.

Next, pick a bathroom command for your dog.  This command will refer to all bathroom activities.  It will also help to ensure all family members are using the same command and helping with the training.  The process will take a few weeks of dedication and consistency from everyone, but once the habit is learned your lawn is always safe.

And, of course, once you have your designated bathroom location decided upon and set up, make sure you clean all of the dog waste out of the rest of the backyard before starting the training process.  Give your lawn a thorough soaking, focusing on the areas your dog used to go to the bathroom, in order to eliminate the scent from those areas.  It is also recommended to place some of your dog’s waste in the dog run area so the scent is there.  Scent is what triggers a dog to release his or her bladder or bowels, and can be very helpful in the training process (remembering that dogs can only learn through instinct and repetition – and here we will use both).

Once you are ready to begin (and barring any particular medical issues your dog may have which could affect success), the training is a simple matter of accompanying your dog to the designated location – on leash – for every bathroom break for the next two weeks.  There are no exceptions; consistency is important.

Keeping Fido on leash at first is key so he doesn’t wander from the dog run and so you don’t have to catch him and bring him back.  Instead, you will simply walk your dog out to the dog run, give the bathroom command, and wait.  A standard six foot leash is plenty to provide your dog with personal space while ensuring he or she doesn’t stray to the grass.

Like initial house training, once Fido has completed the task perfectly, a little praise (such as a nice, slow chest rub or some go-play time in the yard) can be helpful.

Of course, because we’re trying to teach something new, this means Fido should not get unsupervised play time in the yard during these initial weeks lest do his business elsewhere while no one is watching.  In the event Fido does sneak away and leave his mark outside of the designated dog run area, don’t punish him for it.  Instead, your two weeks starts over and you now know you need to keep a better watch.

Once you’ve completed two weeks of consistent bathroom breaks in the designated area, you can lose the leash and move on to unaccompanied – but still supervised – bathroom breaks.  You will still need to monitor Fido in the backyard, and if you see him begin to wander to or sniff around an unauthorized location (by now you should be very familiar with your dog’s pre-bathroom routine), try a simple verbal interruption such as “hey!” to get his attention.  This alone could be enough to make him aware that he’s in the wrong spot.  If that’s not enough, personally bring him over to the dog run, give him his bathroom command, and wait nearby to make sure he uses it.  If you find yourself repeating this process, you may have to try another week of on-leash bathroom breaks before the habit sticks.

However, if Fido successfully and consistently uses his dog run, and you’ve got confidence that he’s learned this new habit, you can begin to slowly decreased your supervision; for example, from nearby in the yard, to on the deck, to at the doorway, to monitoring from inside, to no supervision at all.  At the final stage, you’ve got to trust that Fido is using his dog run 100% of the time without any help from you.  You can also begin to let your dog have his usual free time in the backyard, but remember to supervise him at first to ensure he keeps on track.  For those who have a dog who is prone to marking his territory, extra supervision will be required to ensure he’s not marking all over the yard, which can spread the scent and slowly lead to him using the whole yard as a bathroom area once again.

Of course, as simple as this sounds, dogs always seem to find the loopholes, and you may face challenges.

Some dogs may not readily take to the idea of going to the bathroom on gravel – or another surface – instead of grass.  As a result, to avoid using the dog run, you may find that your dog “holds it” until it’s time for the daily walk.  There are a couple of ways to get around this while still ensuring your dog gets his necessary exercise regime.

Knowing your dog’s typical bathroom routine can help.  If your dog usually goes to the bathroom near the beginning of the walk, you can try walking around the block and then returning to the dog run for a bathroom break.  Repeat as necessary.  If your dog usually goes to the bathroom near the middle or end of the walk, try breaking the daily one hour walk into two half-hour walks, finishing each with a supervised stop at the dog run.  Don’t forget to use your bathroom command.  If you’ve got to use these techniques, ensure your dog is only spending time in the yard during on-leash bathroom breaks.

If this still doesn’t work, try spacing out your walks (but maintain your typical feeding schedules).  For example, if you walk your dog from 7:00-8:00am on Tuesday, and then again at 9:00pm on Wednesday, your dog has still received an hour long walk each day, but now there is 37 hours between them – odds are your dog is going to need to go to the bathroom at least once during that time.  You just need to make sure you provide ample on-leash bathroom opportunities in the dog run during those 37 hours.

Of course, in the event your dog does do his business during the walk, don’t worry about it and certainly don’t punish him.  We don’t want to train our dogs into thinking there’s only one place in the entire world where they can go to the bathroom – just one specific place within in the confines of the yard.

If you’re worried about your dog opting to go to the bathroom inside the house in favour of the dog run, make sure he/she is supervised while in the house (perhaps by keeping him/her on hands-free/umbilical) and in a crate when unsupervised.

As your dog becomes comfortable and consistent with using his or her assigned bathroom area, ensure that the dog run is cleaned regularly, so your dog never thinks to look for a different, cleaner spot.  While scent is important to encourage dogs to use a specific bathroom area, an area that is too messy will discourage them from using it altogether.  It is also important to thoroughly rinse off the dog run once or twice per year to help control excessive odours.

Finally, as winter comes, ensure your dog still uses the same location even once it is snow-covered.  This will save you from having to re-train him or her every spring.

And of course, once you’ve trained your dog once, you can easily use the same process again to train him or her to go in another new location in the event you’re moving, going out of town, or simply relocating the dog run.

Happy training!

Sign available at jnmnt53's Etsy shop

Bloat / Gastric Torsion

Bloat / Gastric Torsion:
A Compilation of Available Information (or the lack thereof)

Prelude

Written after having an alarming episode of bloat with Moses (Newfoundland, 1½ years old at the time) in October 2009, the severity and unexpected nature of the experience prompted me to, in my typical fashion, immediately start to learn everything about bloat that I possibly could, and find an answer to my favourite question: why?  Thankfully, Moses survived and recovered well after his surgery.  Our emergency veterinarian credited our quick response and his young age to his speedy recovery.  And, for those of you who are curious, the surgery – at a 24 hour vet at midnight on a Friday – cost us $4,500.  But it’s Moses, and he’s absolutely worth it.

Moses’ x-ray:

Moses' x-ray

The information that follows is easy to come by.  As soon as Moses was in surgery, I began reading everything I could find.

Anyone who undertakes a similar task will likely meet the same frustrated realisation about the lack of empirical, scientific research concerning bloat/gastric torsion.  Many of the resources conflict and many are even internally inconsistent.  A lot is based on opinion and personal experience of reputable breeders, but there is limited information from the veterinary sciences.  The most quoted is the Purdue University study by Lawrence T. Glickman, VMD et al., which, while it does provide limited insight, still falls short of providing an understanding of the causes of bloat, and definitive methods of prevention for those of us with at-risk dogs.

One resounding fact is that any actual causes of bloat remain unknown, despite the multitude of speculations.  Even the renowned Dog Whisperer Cesar Millan’s website simply states “the causes of bloat are not yet well understood”.

My ultimate goal then was to compile the research and information on bloat available to the layperson.  This will undoubtedly expose the shortfalls, but more importantly, I aim to educate fellow dog owners to the best of my ability.

I also specifically note I cannot claim any authority or expertise with respect to the enclosed information.  I do not have a degree in veterinary medicine or anything of the sort.  On the whole, most of the information below is accessible to anyone with an internet connection.  The Purdue study results are easy to find and oft-cited by breeders and kennel clubs, and what is mostly found is the same information repeated over and over.  In addition, I have inquired of three different veterinarians on the issue: our emergency vet from Vancouver, our two local veterinarians, and another local vet here who came highly recommended.  The bottom line remains, and they all agree: there is no known cause of bloat, yet it statistically remains the second leading killer of dogs.  No theories on the cause of bloat have been scientifically proven and all seem to be only partially true.

What is “bloat”?

Bloat is a generic term for two occurrences:

1.  Gastric Dilation-Volvulus (GDV): the accumulation of gas and fluid in the stomach that cannot be expelled.  GDV can and often does escalate to Gastric Torsion.

2.  Gastric Torsion:  the rapid enlargement of the stomach caused by the twisting of the stomach in such a way that it is impossible for contained gases and fluid to escape.  GDV may result in a stomach that is rotated by anywhere from 90° to 360°.

GDV results in physiological changes that create a medical and surgical emergency. Changes are both localized (limited to the organs involved, i.e. the stomach and the spleen) and systemic (affecting other vital organs in the body).  Increased pressure inside the stomach causes blood flow there to slow and eventually stop.  Severe torsion can tear the short branches of the artery between the spleen and the stomach, thus increasing the potential for necrosis (death of cells) of the stomach wall.  Displacement of the spleen can cause blood clots in the blood vessels there or even torsion of the spleen.  Obstruction of blood flow from these abdominal organs to the heart causes systemic changes.  The rapid and often massive reduction of blood returning to the heart reduces cardiac output and therefore deprives tissues of sufficient nutrients and oxygen.  Furthermore, the abdominal organs become engorged with blood, which makes the intestines more permeable to the bacteria and bacterial products within them, thus releasing bacteria and their toxic substances (endotoxin) into the bloodstream.  The reduced blood flow to the heart, coupled with the circulation of substances released from the pancreas, spleen and other organs severely impair cardiac functions, and cause cardiac arrhythmia (irregular heartbeats).  Blood flow to the kidneys falls which increases the risk of acute kidney damage.  A condition called Disseminated Intravascular Coagulation (DIC, a life threatening bleeding disorder of the blood clotting mechanism) may occur. Finally, the stomach and/or intestines may perforate, resulting in the contamination of the abdominal cavity with stomach contents and bacteria. A combination of shock, septic peritonitis (acute and painful inflammation of the membranes lining the abdominal and organ walls), and DIC, together with multiple organ failures, results in death within hours of the initial signs of bloat.

A diagram of how the stomach bloats:

How the stomach bloats

Treatment

In a simple case of GDV, in which the stomach fills with gas, the veterinarian will insert a tube down the throat, relieve the gas, pump out the stomach and give the stomach a thorough washing.  Acute GDV or torsion requires immediate veterinary care and surgery.  Post-operative treatment for shock often requires prolonged hospitalization.  In the case of torsion, the stomach is surgically “tacked down” to the body wall to prevent the twist from occurring again (called “gastroplexy”), because once a dog suffers from bloat, there is a 75 to 90% chance it will happen again, often within days of the first attack.  After the stomach has been “tacked down”, the chances of torsion occurring again are reported to be between 2 and 6%.

The reported mortality rates in dogs suffering from bloat ranges from 10 to 60%, even with treatment.  With surgery, the mortality rate is reported between 15 to 33%.  If tissue damage is so bad that part of the stomach must be removed during surgery, the mortality rate is said to be between 28 and 38%.  If the tissue damage is so bad that the spleen must be removed, the mortality rate is 32 to 38%.

The immediate aim of surgery is to return the stomach to its normal position and to evaluate it and the spleen for signs of irreversible damage (such as tissue necrosis – cell death).  Long-standing or severe twisting may occasionally cause necrosis in portions of the esophagus (the food canal down the throat).  If so, chances for survival are poor.  If gastric perforation at any site (perforation of the organ wall) has occurred, then the chance for survival is extremely poor.  Barring any sign of irreversible damage, the veterinarian will perform gastropexy.  There are a number of techniques of gastropexy, and debate continues as to which method is more effective. The fact that there is still heated debate in the techniques indicates that none is currently totally satisfactory.  Medical and dietary management after GDV is important to help prevent recurrence.

Diagnosing Bloat

If you think your dog is suffering from bloat, the most important thing is to get him/her to a vet immediately for treatment.  Call your veterinary clinic to tell them you’re on your way with a suspected case of bloat.  Early diagnosis and treatment are the most important factors for a successful outcome and speedy recovery.

Symptoms to watch for include extreme restlessness, excessive panting, salivation, drooling, and unsuccessful attempts to vomit or defecate.  The dog may whine, and will seem to have trouble getting comfortable.  As the condition progresses, the stomach area appears swollen and distended.  Bloat can usually be detected when you make the dog stand up and you gently feel his/her abdomen.  The abdomen should feel soft and tapered inward when the dog is relaxed; with bloat, the abdomen feels hard, and will have a hollow “thump” when gently tapped.  Rapid breathing, pale-coloured mouth membranes, and collapse are signs of shock due to a more advanced phase of bloat.  High numbers of dogs with bloat have cardiac arrhythmias (40% according to one study).  

If bloat is untreated, the dog will die within hours, and in a worst-case scenario, the dog may die within 30 minutes of the first recognised symptom.  Sometimes a dog will progress from bloat to torsion in minutes, so do not attempt home remedies yourself: get him/her to a veterinarian immediately.

Of course, because immediate treatment is the most important factor in a favourable prognosis, it is a good idea to know where your local emergency veterinary clinic is located and the quickest routes there.  If you’re not convinced your dog has bloat, it is better to err on the side of caution.

Which dogs are at risk for bloat?

Breed

While any dog can suffer from bloat/gastric torsion, it is largely agreed that large-chested breeds are at the greatest risk for bloat.  According to the University of Purdue, the following breeds, in order, have the most reported incidents of bloat:

1.         Great Dane
2.         Saint Bernard
3.         Weimaraner
4.         Irish Setter
5.         Gordon Setter
6.         Standard Poodle
7.         Bassett Hound
8.         Doberman Pinscher
9.         Old English Sheepdog
10.       German Shorthaired Pointer
11.       Newfoundland
12.       German Shepherd
13.       Airedale Terrier
14.       Alaskan Malamute
15.       Chesapeake Bay Retriever
16.       Boxer
17.       Collie
18.       Labrador Retriever
19.       English Springer Spaniel
20.       Samoyed
21.       Dachshund
22.       Golden Retriever
23.       Rottweiler
24.       Mixed
25.       Miniature Poodle

The sources are split on whether or not bloat is a hereditary condition, and some even disagree with themselves on this issue, stating that while bloat is not hereditary, you shouldn’t breed dogs with a history of bloat.  The Purdue University study suggests that the incidence of GDV is closely correlated to the depth and width of the dog’s chest, and several different genes from the parents determine these traits.  If both parents have particularly deep and narrow chests, then it is highly likely that their offspring will have deep and narrow chests and the resulting problems that may go with it. 

Age

The Purdue University study concluded that dogs over 7 years of age are more than twice as likely to develop gastric torsion than dogs 2-4 years old.  Some believe that the ligaments that hold the stomach in its normal position stretch with age, causing the increased risk.  This does not mean bloat in young dogs is unheard of, and stories of bloat in young puppies thought to have over-eaten are common.

Sex

While many sources report that male dogs are at an increased risk for bloat, many other sources report that male and female dogs are at an equal risk.  It is widely agreed that spaying/neutering your dog has no impact on the dog’s potential for bloat.

Non-genetic factors which may or may not affect the risk of bloat

The other factors which may or may not have an impact on the risk of bloat are largely disagreed upon from one source to the next.  Most, if not all, have no scientific backing or research evidencing the claim, and many are simply based on common sense or personal experiences.  It is important to note that since the veterinary community acknowledges there is no known “cause” for bloat, much of the following is speculation.

Eating Habits

The Purdue study suggests that dogs fed once a day were twice as likely to develop bloat as those fed twice per day, and it is widely recommended to feed your dog 2 or 3 smaller meals per day.  The reasoning behind this is that dogs that eat more hurriedly are at a greater risk for bloat because they gulp air.  Smaller, more frequent meals will help prevent this.  All three vets I spoke to recommended this as a basic preventative measure, although doing so will not guarantee prevention of gastric torsion, and many dogs who are fed two or more meals in a day have still experienced bloat.  It is also recommended that dogs be fed individually if possible and in a quiet location.  Dietary changes should be made over the course of 3-5 days.

Raised Food/Water Dishes

As the older sources demonstrate, it used to be widely believed that feeding your dog from raised food and water dishes was an important measure to help reduce the risk of bloat, and many breeders still recommend this practice.  However, recent studies suggest that eating off raised dishes actually significantly increases the risk of bloat, with some sources suggesting the risk is increased as much as 200%.  It appears that the more recent sources (2007 and newer) seem to agree that eating off of raised dishes is not recommended, and the Purdue research says that dogs at an increased risk should eat at floor level.

Access to Water

While opinions here differ, it is often suggested that providing your dog constant access to water throughout the day will help prevent bloat – perhaps because it will prevent them from becoming overly thirsty and gulping water.  However, a number of sources recommend limiting the dog’s access to water during meals and shortly thereafter.

Exercise

While the cause of bloat is unknown, all sources consulted agree that vigorous exercise, excitement, and stress should be avoided after meals for up to two hours.  Cases of stomach torsion resulting from a dog engaging in high-energy activity after a meal are common according to the vets consulted.

Temperament

The Purdue University study advises that dogs that tend to be more aggressive, fearful, or anxious appear to be at an increased risk of developing bloat.

Weight

It is often reported that dogs that are lean or underweight are at an increased risk for bloat.  Some believe it is because fat takes up space in the abdomen allowing less space for the stomach to “rotate” or move around, but there is really no scientific basis for this suggestion.

Stress

Many sources agree that stress, such as that which occurs during kennelling, can be a significant factor in the increased risk of bloat.  There are many reported cases of dogs experiencing bloat following their first meal once returning home after a major surgical procedure. 

Gas

There is believed to be a relationship between dogs with intestinal gas and dogs that bloat. Dogs that belch or have frequent bouts of flatulence are believed to be at an increased risk.  Whether the cause is due to physiology or diet is not speculated upon.  Many sources recommend avoiding feeding foods that are known to cause flatulence, including beans, peas, onions, beet pulp, etc, as a preventative measure.  Many sources also recommend avoiding soy in a dog’s diet, while there still has been no study that links soy with bloat.  Some sources also advocate the feeding of large pieces of fresh/raw fruits and vegetables (e.g. apples, oranges, carrots) 3 to 4 times a week, effectively adding roughage, to ensure the digestive system functions properly.

Some people even give their dogs over-the-counter anti-flatulent (simethecone products such as Gas X®), just before or after they put their dogs through stressful situations.  It may also be useful when the dog appears to have a lot of gas.  Some sources even suggest providing your dog with anti-flatulent drugs as a short-term remedy for GDV, as it may help as long as torsion hasn’t already begun.  While this and a number of other home-remedies are sometimes discussed, no treatment is equivalent to proper veterinary care.

Diet

When asked, all three veterinarians I spoke to informed me that there is no correlation between diet and instances of bloat, and no scientific research exists to suggest such a relationship.  Despite the hypotheses from a large number or sources, no specific diet or dietary ingredient has been proven to be associated with bloat.  The Purdue study also states that at this time, no cause-and-result relationships between dietary factors and bloat have been established.

It is sometimes suggested that feeding your dog a raw diet may aid in the prevention of bloat, although there is no study supporting this, and there have still been many reports of dogs on raw, natural, or BARF diets that have experienced bloat.  A raw diet is not an insurance policy against bloat.

One source suggests that the raw diet is beneficial because it does not expand in the stomach and is digested faster, thus remaining in the dog’s stomach for a shorter period of time.  On the other hand, it has also been reported that some dogs fed wet or raw food were actually more likely to bloat due to the increased speed at which they ate.  Many studies have found little difference between wet, raw, and dry foods and their effect on bloat.

There has also been speculation regarding specific ingredients in dog food and their relationship to bloat, and many websites advocate avoid feeding your dog food preserved with citric acid, or foods with an oil or fat listed among the first four ingredients.  A nested case-control study was conducted with 85 GDV cases (and 194 controls) consuming a single brand and variety of dry food.  Neither an increasing number of animal-protein ingredients nor an increasing number of soy and cereal ingredients among the first four ingredients significantly influenced GDV risk.  It was found that dry foods containing an oil or fat ingredient (e.g., sunflower oil, animal fat) among the first four ingredients seemed to be associated with an increased risk (2.4 times more likely) of GDV.  These findings suggest that the feeding of dry dog foods that list oils or fats among the first four label ingredients predispose a high-risk dog to GDV, but this is based only on a single study, and more research must be done to confirm the finding.

For those feeding dry dog foods – kibble – the sources seem split on whether or not you should moisten the food prior to feeding or not, as a prevention of bloat.  Many sources say moistening food preserved with citric acid will increase the risk of bloat, while others recommend you moisten the food so it expands before reaching the dog’s stomach.  Again, no cause-and-effect relationship has been established with respect to kibble and bloat.  Occurrences of GDV are still reported even when kibble is moistened prior to being fed.

Basically, and according to the veterinarians spoken to, it is simply advisable to feed your dog a quality diet regardless of any speculations concerning bloat, simply for all the other overall health benefits provided to your dog.

Vaccinations and Bloat

It is reported that the instances of bloat in dogs have increased significantly since the 1960s.  According to one source, this increase is unlikely to reflect changing diagnostic criteria, disease recognition, or genetic factors, but that it could be related to changes in canine vaccines or their pattern of use (i.e. multivalent vaccines).  One specific example speaks of a breeder in the U.S.A. of Standard Poodles who had major problems with bloat in her dogs when multiple modified live virus vaccines started to be given as a matter of course.  When she stopped giving these vaccines and followed a vaccine protocol of giving only single killed vaccines, she stopped getting bloat in her Poodles.

However, there seems to be no study dedicated to this issue, and it appears to be speculation without much evidentiary backing.

Is Bloat a Neurological Disease?

Only one source touched on this possible issue, and suggests that neurotoxins in the environment have begun affecting the production of the hormone motilin in dogs. 

Motilin is an important factor in controlling the pattern of smooth muscle contractions in the upper gastrointestinal tract in dogs.  It is controlled by the central nervous system and is secreted into the circulation at intervals of every one hundred minutes to sweep out undigested material from the stomach and small intestine.  Motilin also stimulates secretions of bile and pancreatic enzymes into the duodenum. 

The study cited suggests that neurotoxic chemicals, which now persist in the residential environment due to pesticide use, bioaccumulate (meaning the chemicals are taken up and stored in fatty tissue faster than they are metabolized or excreted) in the bodies of our canine companions (and ourselves, for that matter).  Recent studies show that such chemicals are consistently present in the air, rain and surface waters, suggesting a long environmental half-life.  These pesticides (neurotoxins) build up in the dog’s body to lead to the degradation of certain neurotransmitters in the brain, leading to improper and insufficient release of motilin, thus increasing the risk of bloat.

Preventing Bloat

Since the causes of bloat are virtually unknown, it is nearly impossible to prevent it and many dogs that would seem to be at a low risk for bloat still manage to get it. 

All veterinarians spoken to recommend feeding more frequent, small meals throughout the day as a common-sense preventative measure.  They also recommend keeping exercise and activity to a minimum after meals. 

As for the other possible factors listed above, they are left to personal preference and judgment.

One preventative option recommended by some parties is to have your dog in for gastroplexy (stomach tacking) before the first instance of bloat occurs.  Provided the stitches heal properly, once the stomach is tacked to the side cavity, it cannot flip, therefore preventing torsion.  To get this done in advance – often when the dog gets spayed or neutered – is significantly less expensive than to proceed with late-night surgery at an emergency clinic (not surprisingly, most bloat cases occur after 6:00pm).

One source mentions that for dogs known to be highly susceptible to GDV (e.g. ones that have already bloated before), owners may wish to discuss the use of medicinal prevention (such as Metoclopramide Hydrochloride, or Reglan®) with their veterinarian.  The medicine is widely used in humans after abdominal surgery to combat painful intestinal flatulence.  It chemically decompresses the stomach and intestines, forcing the gas out.  Like all drugs, there are side effects, so the benefits and problems of long term use should be carefully weighed and discussed.

Conclusion

Unfortunately, there are very few conclusions concerning bloat at present.  Most importantly, it is a serious medical situation which can be faced by any dog and any owner.  Ultimately, and regardless of any preventative measures taken, or how low-risk you believe your dog to be, the most important thing is to be aware of the signs and symptoms so you can respond quickly when you suspect your dog may be suffering from gastric torsion.

References / Further Reading

• The Pet Health Library: Bloat, the Mother of All Emergencies
  www.veterinarypartner.com
• Department of Veterinary Pathobiology, School of Veterinary Medicine, Purdue University, West Lafayette, Indiana:  http://www.vet.purdue.edu/epi/update2.htm
  or:  http://www.vet.purdue.edu/epi/bloat.htm
• Effect of Ingredients in Dry Dog Foods on the Risk of Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus in Dogs:  Malathi Raghavan, DVM, PhD, Nita W. Glickman, MPH, PhD and Lawrence T. Glickman, VMD, DrPH
• Non-dietary risk factors for gastric dilatation-volvulus in large and giant breed dogs.  Lawrence T. Glickman, VMD, DrPH; Nita W. Glickman, MS, MPH; Diana B. Schellenberg, MS; Malathi Raghavan, DVM; Tana Lee, BA  (Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Vol. 217, No. 10, November 15, 2000)
• Understanding Bloat and Torsion: http://www.kifka.com/Elektrik/Bloat.htm
• www.totallyrawdogfood.com
• Newfoundland Dog Health: http://www.newfoundlanddog-health.info/bloat.htm
• The Dog Owner’s Guide: http://www.canismajor.com/dog/bloat.html
• http://www.briard.com/about/bloat.html  
• Bernese Mountain Dog Club of America: http://www.bmdca.org/health/Miscellaneous/Gastric_Dilatation_Volvulus_Bloat.php
• Meyer-Lindenberg A., Harder A., Fehr M., Luerssen D., Brunnberg L. Treatment of gastric dilatation-volvulus and a rapid method for prevention of relapse in dogs: 134 cases (1988-1991) Journal of the AVMA, Vol 23, No 9, Nov 1 1993, 1301-1307.
• Beck, J.J., Staatz, A.J., Pelsue, D.H., Kudnig, S.T., MacPhail, C.M., Seim H.B, and Monnet, E. Risk factors associated with short-term outcome and development of perioperative complications in dogs undergoing surgery because of gastric dilatation-volvulus: 166 cases (1992-2003). Journal of the AVMA, Vol 229, No 12, December 15, 2006, p 1934-1939
• Brockman D.J., BVSc, CVR, CSAO, MRCVS, “Gastric Dilation-Volvulus Syndrome in the Dog”, Pedigree Breeder Forum, Vol 3 # 3, 19-23, 1994
• Woolfson J.M. and Kostolich M., Sch Vet Med, Tufts Univ, “Circumcostal Gastropexy: Clinical Use of the Technique in Dogs With Gastric Dilation-Volvulus”, JAAHA 22:825-830.
• Hall J.A., College of Veterinary Medicine, Colorado State University, “Gastric Dilation-Volvulus is Associated With Altered Gastric Electro-Electromechanical Activity”, Proc Ann ACVIM Forum, 1990.

Electronic copies of this article can be found at CanadasGuidetoDogs.com and the Tail Blazers website.  I post it here as I am the author.